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North Pennines - a Grouse or Two! - 13th to 16th October, 2015

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No, not a grouse about the North Pennines, but Grouse in the North Pennines - more of that later!

I've not posted on Blogger for some time now as spirits have been a bit low. However, I was very much looking forward to taking a short break with my wife, Lindsay (that's 'with', not 'from'!), based on Middleton in Teesdale, County Durham. That break has set me up to get on with life.

Tuesday 13th October

We had a gentle start to the day, setting off from home at around 10h45. Our first stop was in Boston Spa, where we intended to have lunch at the Deli Cafe - a great favourite of ours. You can, therefore, probably imagine our disappointment when we discovered that the proprietor had, since our last visit, decided that he's going take one day off a week, and that day is Tuesday! We lunched in an establishment a few yards down the road, and ended up with the resolve that we'd never return there again under any circumstances.

We arrived at The Teesdale Hotel, in Middleton in Teesdale in the mid-afternoon and, after refreshing ourselves with a cup of tea, set out to explore this small town. We instantly took to the place and even managed to find a craft shop which sold English Lakes ice cream (and beautifully crafted they were too!). I'd met this make of ice cream a couple of months previously when passing this way with friends David and Miriam, and had been extremely impressed, so was pleased to find it here. Lindsay had 'Thunder and Lightning' and I had 'Raspberry Pavlova' - both were excellent!

That night we had a drink in the cosy bar of the hotel before taking dinner (very good) in their restaurant. We slept quite well after that, although it would have been better if the duvet, instead of being exactly the same size as the top of the bed, had had a bit of an overlap. Fortunately the room was warm so we didn't suffer from cold draughts at the edges!

Wednesday 14th October

This was a holiday for us both, rather than a birding break (although the Thursday did become somewhat 'birdy'!). After a good breakfast we set off southwards for The Bowes Museum. I'll not go into detail but this amazing place was a purpose-built museum, and the result of the philanthropy of an extremely wealthy couple (he was English, and she French). She was also an extremely talented artist. Tragically she died before the completion of the vision that was largely hers. We spent a very enjoyable couple of hours here before setting off again to somewhere for lunch.

The Bowes Museum - Barnard Castle
We had a very enjoyable light lunch at The Bowlees Centre, just north of Middleton and then set off on the short walk to the waterfall which is Low Force, and continued a short way beyond beside the River Tees. I didn't take any images of Low Force as the weather was a bit dull and I'd got a few decent ones in August.

There was a distant Dipper present in July, and this time there was one somewhat closer - but still rather distant (around 40 metres).


Dipper (Cinclus cinclus) - above Low Force
I watched the Dipper for around half an hour, but it never came any closer. Even more distant were a pair of Goosander, tucked behind an island at around 150 metres distance.

Goosander (Mergus merganser) - above Low Force
I'd left Lindsay sitting on a grassy knoll, watching the river, so dutifully returned to her so that we could set off back to the visitor centre. Sadly, the selection of flavours of English Lakes ice cream here was uninspiring.

Our next destination was the High Force Hotel, where we parked our car and walked to the High Force waterfall. Here you pay for the car park and entrance to the waterfall, but it saves a walk of around 2 km each way.

On the way to the falls we were amused by this sign.

beside the path to High Force
Also from the path to High Force I had my first sighting for the year of Kingfisher, but it flew past rapidly and I couldn't locate it again, so no photo. High Force is more spectacular than Low Force but not as beautiful. To my mind, the view a couple of hundred metres before you get there is better than the close-up view although you don't get the full impact of the thunderous noise of the water.

High Force  - Forest in Teesdale